We had been planning a trip to Japan for almost a year. Our accommodation was booked, Sumo tickets arranged, and rail passes hot in our hands - and then Covid-19 hit. Our train trip around Japan’s Honshu Island quickly turned into a road-trip around New Zealand’s South Island, in a bid to avoid one of the harder hit countries in the early stages of the outbreak. It wasn’t the trip we had planned, but it was a trip we were outrageously lucky to go on, given that international and even domestic travel are now essentially banned.
So, in light of the fact that we are all held up at home (and dreaming of a time when we can travel again) I thought I would share some of my favourite images from our little holiday, and a brief run down of the places we visited. My experience of New Zealand is as one of the most naturally spectacular landscapes I have ever explored, and if you’re looking for an honest outdoors kind of holiday it’s tough to beat. Be forewarned though, if you hate fresh air and spectacular scenery this one is not for you.
We flew into Christchurch on a red-eye, piled into a rental car, and did a two-and-a-half week highlights reel of the most breathtaking spots on the South Island. Our route went as follows:
Christchurch
A sweet little city still rebuilding after catastrophic earthquakes destroyed much of it. For great food and atmosphere head to Riverside Market, before strolling through the cities Botanical Gardens. Christchurch is a good starting point, with airlines often offering a cheaper fare than to Queenstown, and hire cars easily accessible. Give yourself a day to get your bearings and then hit the road.
Kaikoura
This seaside town is all about the water. Whale watching and coastal walks are the draw cards here. Top it off with some fish and chips up the main street, and then it’s back on the road. Give yourself a day and you’ll be happy.
Marlborough Region
Eat. Drink. Sleep. Repeat. This region is famous for producing some of New Zealand’s best wine, and is best experienced by bike. There are a plethora of cellar doors to choose from, most of which charge next to nothing for a tasting, and do so with true Kiwi hospitality. Let your passion (or lack of) for wine dictate how long you spend in the region.
Franz Josef
As the name suggests, Franz Josef is the gateway town to Franz Josef Glacier. This Glacier, along with neighbouring Fox Glacier, are melting fast (thank-you global warming), meaning time to visit these incredible landscapes is running out. This isn’t helped by the extreme weather events the West Coast region is known for. Torrential rain often causes destruction of roads, mountain-sides and river banks, further inhibiting access to the Glaciers. The lush green rainforest that defines the region, arguably makes it one of the most beautiful spots to visit on the South Island. This is a special place to explore via a range of beautiful valley walks (or by air if you’re lucky enough), while you still can.
Wanaka
This spectacular lakeside town has some of the most incredible scenery on the South Island. Drive in via Mount Aspiring National Park, and do your best to keep your eyes on the road. Vivid lakes, lush rainforest, and awe-inspiring mountains make this drive one to remember. The landscape gets more impossibly beautiful around every bend in the road. In town hit Big Fig Cafe for lunch, rent bikes and tour around the lake, and climb Roy’s Peak or Mt Iron. During snow season Wanaka is also driving distance to some of the best ski resorts on the Island.
Arrowtown
A picturesque little historic town on the way to Queenstown, this place is all about wool, gold and curling up in a cafe corner. Arrowtown and the surrounding area is incredibly scenic, and the perfect small-town antidote to the hustle and bustle of it’s neighbouring big brother, Queenstown.
Queenstown
A must-see hub on the South Island; Queenstown needs little introduction. A tourist mecca for obvious reasons - it’s insanely beautiful and packed with adrenaline fuelled outdoor activities. For me, the skiing is a huge draw-card, however our very early Autumn trip didn’t allow for it. Snow aside, there are so many beautiful walks, drives and bike rides in the area, not to mention the myriad of things you can jump off and swing from.
As naff as it is, you have to get yourself on a gondola and head up Queenstown Hill. The view is so good you will soon forgive the crowds, and I’d be lying if I said I didn’t enjoy the luging. Soak in the Onsen Hot Pools at Arthurs Point, where the wall to your private bath retracts open to reveal a beautiful sunset view. Drive to Glenorchy for lunch at The Trading Post, then drive on to Paradise (yes, that's really the name), with views so epic and unspoilt they have to be seen to be believed. Venture up The Remarkables, ride around lake Wakatipu, visit a Lavender Farm, smash a Fergburger, get wet in a jet-boat, drink at a winery, play Frisby Golf in the gardens - the list goes on.
You get the picture; there’s lots to do. Give yourself a bit of time here, even more so if you happen to be in town during snow season, with The Remarkables, Cardrona and Coronet Peak all a stones throw away. We rented an apartment on the lakes edge a few minutes out of Queenstown, and it really made this stop special.
Milford Sound via Te Anau
On my last trip to New Zealand the Milford road was closed due to avalanches in the area - suffice it to say the drive in is pretty epic. On my second attempt I got to tick this one off the bucket list.
Milford Sound (which is actually a Fjord), is one of the most pristine natural cathedrals I have ever seen and totally worth the long journey to get there. Gateway town Te Anau is nothing to write home about, but a great place to stay before the long drive in to Milford. Make sure this one is on your list.
Mount Cook/Aoraki
If the vivid turquoise lakes that surround the Mt Cook area aren’t enough to lure you in, then the sight of the mountains summit on a clear blue day surely will be. Mustards, browns and muted greens set the tone for this rugged landscape through the Summer months, whilst snow-capped peaks as far as the eye can see signal Winter. The road in is spectacular, and the perfect prelude to one (or more) of the walks on or around the mountain.
Lake Tekapo
Never have I ever seen a more beautiful shade of turquoise; Lake Tekapo and neighbouring Lake Pukaki defy description. These lakes look positively un-real, and in the best way possible. This is a must-see part of the South Island whether you’re staying in the area or driving through. The water is cold - I’m talking New Zealand levels of cold. So I wouldn’t be rushing to get into your swimmers, but the cool temperatures make it no less beautiful.
Before sunset make your way to Tekapo Springs and watch the light disappear over the lake and the surrounding mountains. Post Sauna head back to town for dinner at Kohan Japanese Restaurant. So unexpected, and so good. On your way home be sure to look up; Tekapo is renowned for it’s star gazing.
There are obviously a number of ways to approach the Island - this is just one. Whichever way you spin it my advice would be as follows: don’t plan your time around towns and cities but rather natural sights and experiences, rent a car (it’s not expensive), take a raincoat AND get ready to walk.